CICEWA Workshop #3

This week, I was asked to attend one of our IDRC research partner's workshops here in Johannesburg. Here is an edited version of my workshop report.

1. Project Objective:

The project, “Communication for Influence: Linking Advocacy, Dissemination and Research: Building ICTD Networks in Central, East and West Africa” (CICEWA) has the objective to identify obstacles to universal affordable access to broadband ICT infrastructure in Central, East and West Africa through two sub-regional ICT policy advocacy networks. Their key role is to disseminate research and find effective ways to advocate for ICTD.

2. Workshop

CICEWA hosted their third in a series of workshops (the June one was in Senegal). I dropped in last Wednesday, July 16. The purpose of the workshop was to bring African journalists and researchers nominated by the ICT4D network from East, West and Central Africa to develop a common research framework, and build the network for stronger ICT4D policy advocacy. In the previous two meetings, two regional networks were formed: EAICT4D, coordinated by Harry Hare (KictaNet, Kenya) and GOREeTIC (Coura Fall, APC).

There were 18 participants (7 were women) from both French (Senegal, Congo-Brazzaville, Rwanda, Benin) and English (Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda) speaking African countries. One of the participants was an APC member from South America.

3. Presentation: Telecommunication Reform in South Africa

The first speaker, Robert Horwitz, Professor at UC San Diego, spoke about a paper that he and Willie Currie recent wrote: “Another instance where privatization trumped liberalization: The politics of telecommunications reform in South Africa – A ten-year retrospective”. This journal article was used in the presentation as a possible output model for the country teams. The author spoke further on the research and the methodology undertaken to produce this paper.

A major issue which arises from many transitions from monopoloy state-owned telecommunications to a competitive market is governance. How does a country create a new market structure for telecommunications and then how do you deal with the incumbent? How do you change the tariffs enough for the incumbent (who had provided much infrastructure in the first place) to stay competitive and yet allow competitors? Many known regulators are still unable to provide strong structure to guide this process in a transparent manner.

4. Discussion

The researchers were asked to develop their country’s political narrative or institutional histories and use institutional players, the context, the political structures and understand why things happened and how they are likely to play out.

Major question put to the participants, “Where are the points of entry, on policy, and advocacy, how best to engage, how to provide pressure with impact, and practices of freedom.”

During the discussion, each country described their political and telecommunications story. In summary, there were several issues with the regulator and its ability to help in lowering the interconnection costs between mobile phone operators. There were also examples were cell phone operator competition led to lower prices but cases like Tanzania were there was no price change. There is also the issue of high costs as a result of governments high tax imposition (ex. Uganda has 30 % tax). Discussion also came up on the weak consumer associations in the country who are not able to push for fair competition and lower prices.

In terms of the research, the question came up as to how one revealed the “secret deals” which undermine the processes of good governance particularly during this transition period? How do we start to see transparency and show things as understood and fair by its citizens? How does one expose “never released documents” and hold government accountable?

Fifteen ways in order to retrieve important documents and interview key informants in institutions like government:

a) Be persistent
b) Try talking to people who lost out in a contract or deal
c) Work through the opposition or the chair of certain parliamentary committee
d) Interview mid-level management, reveal certain information, build rapport, allow them to reflect on the big picture
e) Always check sourcing
f) ‘Follow the money’ – check annual reports, stock exchange prices / reports
g) Use the switchboard operator to your advantage
h) Turn off the voice recorder and hope this will lead to information
i) reluctance to give information IS information
j) Ensure anonymity: “off the record” can be called key informants, “respected industry insider”
k) Always ask “who else should I talk to?”
l) Possibly align one’s self with an organization (eg. Statistic bureau) for authority
m) Use cousins / sisters within the organizations
n) Be aware of permits which may be required to conduct research.
o) Use the country’s freedom of information act

Other News:

Village Telco and dabba.co.za gets exposed on the Economist: Read more

IDRC - CICEWA network project links here


Special ICT4D Edition: Computer June 2008 (Vol. 41, No. 6).

The restoration of STC

While I have always had the intention to start updating this blog on the wonderful things happening here in South Africa, it is only until now that I have pushed some keys together and voila, words to screen. Since my last blogpost, I have started venturing into new research terrain working with a network on Community Owned Wireless Networks and testing the waters in the socio-economic side of these pilot projects particularly on gender. I'll also go back into time and reflect on the research findings from my mobile phone and technology spending project last year as well as update on the recent workshop and conferences which will be taking place in Africa on Information & Communication Technologies for Development (ICT4D).

Besides that, well you probably heard that Nelson Mandela's turning 90 this Friday! Stories have been running on all the local papers of people who had met Mandela while he was studying as a young lawyer in Jo-burg, to his days spent in prison on Robben Island. I guess you have to give credit to the man, he did his time and the respect and hope he has brought to the people of South Africa is not something one will forget for a very long time.

homemade goods obsession

Today's been fairly creatively stimulating and work un-productive.

Last night, I strutted off into the Centurion evening to a club just off Old Johannesburg Road near where I am staying. Sadly enough, the night of dancing, ended at 12 midnight with a power failure in that part of town. Double Downer (the DJ had no idea what he was remixing), to say the least, but certainly can't be a particularly profitable night for the venue. Well, at least I got my dancing feet moving again.

The next morning, I decided to venture to the Irene Market at Jan Smuts House. Twice a month (1st Sat and 3rd Sat), the diversity of wares are displayed throughout the space surrounded in high shading trees. I was impressed by the range of over 300 stalls of home-made wares, cultural display of cuisine and fun to be spent in Irene.

What did she buy do you ask? Well, first off, a beautiful handmade doll from Vicki's Kid's Stuff (+27 82 806 8401) for R80 or $13. At this booth there were nappie bags and other baby wares. I then stopped at this booth which made these incredibly innovative purse made with a zipper. Pam from Dizzy Zippy (Yvonne: +27 83 248 2376) greeted the passerbys by rolling out this zipper and then zip around and around until it becomes a purse. It's fantastic. Their product ranges from small pencil cases to school bags ranging in price from R40 - R 150 ($ 6.50 - $25).

For lunch I had some Portuguese Rissois near the entrance for R7 ($1) and a 100% real orange juice for R8.

In the beginning, I cruised through the food section only to find some delicious Acacia/Eucalyptus raw honey (R30 or $5) produced in Irene by Bees Knees (+27 12 667 2372 or cjprussell@xsinet.co.za). On the label, it states unheated and unfiltered: “Nature's Best for Connoisseurs off the Comb with all its Natural Pollen” Then next to the honey booth, was the Mustard Shop with some homemade tasty Sweet Basil salad dressing (R20 or $3.40) and DELICIOUS olives mixed with peppadews (R30 or $5 for small plastic container). yum.

My highlight of the market was passing through south africa's history in images. Post cards and other products from digitized material of a man's artifact collection passed down by his father (former professor of Anthropology). A beautiful collection converted into post cards, birthday calendars and tin cans. The Colonial Heritage (The Reed Foundation) boasts of “100 year old postcard & photographic reprints of Old Colonial and Republican South Africa) +27 72910 1661 / +27 82 884 9989. I was able to score some amazing images (R10 or $1.70 per postcard or R70 or $10 for birthday calendar) of the Bluff, Durban with dated shots of 1435 and hear the story from Thatcher and Amber about the infamous Rickshas in Durban when they first arrived from Japan in 1892. Today, most people recognize the ricksha on Durban's ocean front as a tourist trap or the raddest part of surf classic, Endless Summer.

stoked on the visit and will definitely try to go back. Highly recommend arriving there between 8:30am - 10am otherwise feel the wrath of the longest line-up to the market. Parking is R5.

Best Travel Tackling Techniques: O.R. Tambo Johannesburg Airport

I can say I'm a O.R. Tambo regular. Fly out Friday, Fly in Monday. I actually have started find there is a group of vigilante weekend warriors who do the trip as I do to Durban. In the last three months, I share some of the wonderful tidbits that have helped me kill through 30-90 minute wait (either because your cheap flight is delayed or you got to the airport so dang early just in case there is an accident on the road that could be backed up for hours).

1) The Keg and Aviator: Yes, the best way to kill time at O.R. Tambo is finding a nice pint and cheese nachos and just let the hair down. Actually x-nay the nachos - they are kinda not fun and will not meet your expectations. Tucked away at the far end of the restaurant floor, it's worth the few steps further. Do not let them seat you near the entrance; ask to be seated near the back with the flat-screen TVs and people and catch the most recent sport highlights. Sit at one of the long lounge tables, so much room, and it's usually never full. Killer.

2) Sushi at the Ocean Basket: Okay so they may take FOREVER to deliver a few maki rolls, but who cares? The craving must be satisfied and if you are lucky, you might have the women who delivers you the soft rock hits of the 80s on her synthesizer and voice. YEOW.

3) Wi-Fi internet: love it. Sit just about anywhere and time kill on Facebook and digg and other random websites. The phasing out can be so easy.

4) Hand Luggage only: Okay for within country travel, it's worth it. You stare at the long queues and feel the luggage getting heavier and heavier.

5) Lastly, Shaded Parking # 3: Totally wicked find. While not as cheap as Supersaver parking in butt-f* no-where, Shaded Parking #3 is half the price of the other covered lots and it's still close enough to walk if you feel like. The bonus is of course the free shuttle that takes you right to your vehicle or any of the departure gates. love it. I wish I clued into this one 2 months earlier.

9 Great Websites for South Africa Trip Planning

I have been so lucky to have many of my friends from home come visit me in my last few years in South Africa / Kenya. I always have loads of questions thrown my way on Africa in general and travel and living tips in the area. This is my top 9 things to consult before jumping across the ocean to live/work/study or party/travel in South Africa!


1) Free Classified listings in Durban:
It's the craigslist of South Africa! So great for finding rental apartments and cars!

durban.gumtree.co.za/

2) Cheap Flights within South Africa:
All countries have their cheap flights within the country... Kulula, Mango and 1time are the way to go at reasonable rates if you happen to get the right deals. JNB to DUR can be as low as $20-$50 one way!

www.kulula.com
www.flymango.com/
www.1time.aero/

3) Cheap Car Hire in Jo-burg:
I have my old Toyota Corolla beater for 2500 R ($415) a month as I look for a possible permanent vehicle. Best price I have found so far for an automatic.

http://www.rentawreck.co.za/

4) Backpacking in S.A. and Mozambique:
This free guide is on recycled paper at any of the backpackers across South Africa. It is a great way to move across this country at a great price!

www.coastingafrica.com/

5) Good Eats in S.A.:
I love their top 10 lists.

www.eatout.co.za

6) Events in Durban and S.A.:
Haven't used it much but looks promising...

www.ijol.co.za

7) Blogs in Africa:
Get a real sense of what's happening around Africa...

www.amatomu.com
http://afrigator.com

8) Social Bookmarking in Africa:
what are people finding as interesting in Africa?

www.muti.co.za

9) Techy stuff on Africa:
I got some of my social bookmarking links from here. Really innovative stuff.

http://www.bandwidthblog.com/2007/09/14/south-africas-web-startups-to-watch/

S.A. universities: fight for your right...

I am frustrated. Students at the University of the Witwatersrand were shot at with rubber bullets as they attempt to protest against the hike in next year's tuition rates. How ridiculous. You have some of your intellectuals and leaders at one of the top universities in the country with the inability to protest and speak up for their rights to education. I ask those who still represent tertiary education or part of student bodies to support the Wits students with emails, publicly denouncing violence on this protest and messages to these institutions that these are not radical, weapon toting hooligans... these are your future leaders who wish to voice their frustration with the difficult undemocratic S.A. system.

What happened to spare fun time?

I'm back and forth from Durban and Jo-burg as I strive through the last four months of my internship with IDRC. Currently, I'm trying to bag this research project analysis on mobile phones and technology spending and its relation to poverty in rural Kenya and Uganda. Yesterday I took a half day course with Hilary at UKZN's ITD school on the qualitative tool, Nvivo. Super simple to use and I think will be useful to sort out my 200+ pages of transcripts (yes, it took me literally 2 weeks to listen to tapes and do this). My only issue is that Nvivo7 only works on Apples with the intel chip and I'm one generation behind with my iBook G4. Doh. Looks like time for an upgrade when I get back to Vancouver! In the meanwhile, I'm attempting to download free versions of HyperResearch and Tams Analyzer to see if they can do the same job. I'm also do it the old school way, wading through the date on paper with post-its, highlighters and coloured dots as I'm a visual learner, but time is running out and I need something interesting for my presentation to the School of Development Studies on Oct8!

Recently, I was sent this wicked article on Buddeblog called, "Changing societies and the role of telecoms" and makes you re-think again, what's with all the work and where's the balance of giving back to society or at least having fun?

This blog talks about people having more time to engage in social activities when they have telecommunication technology. It reminds me of a comment from a man in Meru, Kenya, when I was conducting interviews... We were talking about the time when the community was having water installed into homes. He recalls one neighbor protested paying for the water and asking, “what will my wife do if she does not fetch water?”. Can you imagine? Rather keep her busy fetching water and keep her from doing other social or functional activities.

I like his props to Canadians and New Zealanders on working to integrate Aboriginal culture (still a way to go but trying more than other countries!)

I especially like this paragraph:

“With the economy changing from scarcity to surplus we should use this unique opportunity to tap into these old cultures, with a view to re-evaluating ourselves, our lives and our communities. A good starting point would be to study these cultures, to try and find some answers to the environmental changes that are currently having such a serious impact. As I write this, half of Greece is on fire – how many more warnings do we need before we start to make changes?”

Maasai captures crowd

with his voice on this video. Best artist from the display of Kenyan artists on Friday night. Read more with a few UBC business students who attended the event....

men do nail polish

While I am going through my field notes from my research this week, I am going to try to recollect some of the most interesting things spotted or experiences. For example, back in June, I interviewed a group of nine women in a hair salon about their mobile phone use and changes in their lives. During this time, I did notice something odd. While salons are usually separated for men and women (like our barbers and salons), there was a man doing nails for a young woman. Yes, I suppose if this was in Vancouver or in some super trendy salon, it would not be strange. But in the context, I asked my research assistant about it, and she said that he was actually not working at the salon. He was a hawker (people selling knick-knacks on the street) and men had picked up the job of doing manicure/pedicures in the area. If a salon does not offer the service, they walk through and do the job. I also noticed another man doing nails from a woman's home several days later.

So talking about gender equality, do nails become a gender-neutral (or is it in this case a male-dominated occupation?) job in rural Uganda? What other examples of jobs exemplified as women-dominated are now being taken on my men even in contexts that appear to be extremely gender-biased? A man carrying a baby on his back in East Africa or man being the "house help" (where the wife works and the man stays home)?

am i shaking?

it's been a crazy few months. I just got back to Nairobi on Tuesday after spending almost 2 months in the field (rural Uganda and Kenya) collecting data for my study. But what's going on in Nairobi? Well for the last three days I have been feeling tremors from a nearby earthquake in Tanzania. It's kind of strange because I actually don't know what I would do. The first time I felt the movement, it was strong, the walls shook, I was on a Skype meeting and froze. The following night I put my passport in my wallet so if whatever may happen i'm ready to move. It's continuous: 5am, 10am. 5pm. 8:30pm. I sometimes don't know if I am shaking because of drinking too much coffee or coca cola or if it's just the continuity of the tremors. What next, Nairobi? Banning of plastic bags and no smoking in public areas? Oh, never mind. That happened as well while I was gone!

How about wild elephants walking around my Kenyan study area especially where the local women collect firewood to sell for their livelihoods? next story.

Viva los Jozi

Today is my last day spent in Johannesburg. This is my catchup email after relatively cold evenings last week in Durban and cold fireplace-required evenings in jo-berg. My lovely friend, Natasha, had put me up at her house of a million random people (the house has people coming in and out all the time and we are both unsure who really lives there). I wish her all the luck in her move to the new pad tomorrow! The neighborhood she lives in is Melville, a very up and coming trendster street with funky ceramic and bead shops, evening bars and morning cafes that remind me of an incredibly small version of Montreal by day and night. I also had the chance to be taken over several extremes of the city - the industrial Midrand area (big, boxy corporate headquarters of multinational companies), Rosebank mall (atypical mall like every other outdoor type mall), and the all eccentric Yeoville (high adventure area but typical of immigrant [this of a north Africa type] ville with much needs for social services). Memory: walk up a flight of stairs to a home converted to Ethiopean restaurant with men sitting on the couch and little girl bouncing around the home/converted food place. thanks tash

Back in Durban - one week later!

Yes, I have been slacking on the entries after I arrived back in Durban last, last Sunday. I have been trying to settle back in to the University system and as expected deal with the usual one-day logistical nightmares of UKZN - getting renewed student card, organizing an office, getting internet access, etc. But luckily it was one day and not an enduring process as one experienced last year during the strike, so I'm relatively happy about that. My birthday had recently passed so I had the chance to dine with some UKZN friends and Sean at a Moroccan restaurant called Fabulous. As fabulous as the food was, the service was pretty dismal - example, not allowing Lauren's vegan cake into the premises UNLESS we paid a "cake fee". Crazy. Anyways, I liked my chicken tagine and can say it was comparable to the Moroccan version but it looks like the lamb shanks and ostrich were the actual tasty winners. The weekend was spent reviewing notes and surfing back in town. Durban had some big canoe festival going on last Sunday, so while waiting on the surf break, we watched several hundred race canoe paddle out of the waterfront, of course, with a few overturned boats not quite making it past the break. too funny!

The university has its usual stream of School of Development Studies seminars and workshops going on: today, Professor Vishnu Padayachee will host "Capitalism of a special type? Trajectories of capital accumulation in South Africa" at noon today. I just might attend.

Duduzile Khumalo from the Centre for Civil Soceity hosts on Friday: "Social and cultural benefits of Umgeni River that have been lost to the Inanda Dam"

Her description: "Dudu Khumalo is a community activist working mostly with rural and townships organisations. She has worked with the South African Municipal workers union (SAMWU) as an Organiser and as a co-ordinator for Water and Sanitation issues in the SAMWU KwaZulu Natal Province. While at SAMWU she also helped to co-ordinate Women's issues within the Union. She is currently at the Centre for Civil Society as a community intern."

Gastronomic Delight of Fez, Morocco

Rad Writers at the Ottawa Writer's Festival

If I was in Ottawa, I would only be attending this event: Writer's Festival, hosted at the National Library and Archives. Stephanie Nolen, the voice of Africa in the Globe and Mail (read a snippet from her book 28 Stories of AIDS in Africa here, will be speaking along with Michael Ondaatje, Andrew Cohel and Alexandre Trudeau. What a line-up.

Maroc: Bienvenue!

I finally get to see North Africa. When I lived in south Portugal back in 2002, I had always contemplated hopping on the ferry from Spain to say that I had been to "Africa" - well Morocco, that is. Now being a little more knowledgeable (less naive) about the continent, my "hop-over" will now be an 11pm flight tonight to Dubai (another new airport), then connecting to Casablanca, and then Fez, Morocco at around 5pm on April 14. Map is courtesy of US CIA. Ah, the joys of long flights and airport interiors. I have also been informed that about some most-wanted local suicide bombers with 9lbs of explosives were taken down by police in the slum areas of Casablanca. Apparently it should not affect travel in anyway. For me, it sounds like a re-visit of when I passed through Bilbao, north of Spain, winter 2001, when the day before, the police had to block off some street for an expected bombing by the ETA. No one was hurt, but full-on threat to citizens living in these cities that they experience everyday.

What have I been reading: The reason why I love the New Yorker is because of its eloquent way of getting the reader to see multiple sides to a person or event that the mainstream media, in most cases, fails to cover. I noticed that Cassidy's article on Paul Wolfowitz, president of the World Bank, has become their most read article. The article allows the read to try to determine themselves whether Mr. Wolfowitz could be using his presidency as a move to push his agenda on Iraq which failed to surface with the US government because of his "silent diplomacy". I got in major debate with an American and Canadian volunteer while in Mombasa on the World Bank especially on the quote that Mr. Wolfowitz was a "bleeding heart". I like the lead-on that the World Bank president needs to project more clearly his plans for the future of World Bank as McNamara did... decide for yourself. Good read.

Mombasa Easter SlideShow

Wow, this took a while to figure how to put together a slideshow on your blog. I actually learned how to do it from Digital Inspiration website and voila! after a few newbie errors, this is the wonderful tool of showing my photos from Flickr. This digital world is a wonderful place! hahah.

Mombasa was hot and sweaty. From the bus ride on the newly paved tarmac, right into the island, I felt the perma-drip on my nose the whole time we were in Mombasa. I caught the mini-bus everywhere, hopping around from one part of the north coast to the other. We crashed a few 5-star hotel poolsides just to take advantage of their waterfront location and lounge chairs. On the Saturday, we made our way into Haller Park to see the giraffes up-close and personal - the park is actually more than that. It is a peaceful trail of ponds and wildlife, completely to gain back serenity after hours of people at the Nakumatt shopping centre or the packed beaches. I stayed with some new friends at Bombolulu, a handicraft workshop where all goods are made by the disabled or the blind. It is an amazing place as the staff live on the grounds and you will find yourself surrounded by smiles and welcoming sits or chats near a breezy covered spot even at the heat of the day. Thanks to Cindy, Geoff, John, and Mike for our competitive evenings of this boardgame, Carcassone and introducing me to the Mombasa place of life. Enjoy the pics.

Simplicity or not?

After almost two years with the same design for the blog, I've decided to switch over to a more simplistic format, colour and font change. I'm not sure if I feel to comfortable with it yet, so bare with me while I test my own tastes on you.

After heavy debate between me, myself and I, the decision for a trip to Mombasa for Easter holidays has been set. I'll be jumping on an non-air-conditioned bus at 9am on Friday morning and be set on my way to the East coast. I met some new VSO friends who said that they would be happy to host us. I am so looking forward to seeing the ocean, sand and just a new side to the world.

It's funny the things you start to miss while living away from home. Like funky trendster Asians walking around Robson and 10$ all-you-can-eat sushi or cheap Sunday brunch with friends or Aboriginal Art or Emily Carr and the imfamous West Coast forests. I have been getting a bit Vancouver home flavour from a few fun websites from like Beyond Robson and the Commodified. The best at home literature I get at the office is the Ottawa Citizen. Oh yea.

Following Tech Development in Kenya

Just made a quick post on PICTURE Africa on a meeting of tech and engineering minds of Kenya... check it out...

Zippy Okoth performs at Alliance Francaise - Nairobi

Nairobi is flourishing with culture and it's hard to let it just pass you by while living in this vibrant city. Last night, Zippy Okoth, performed a 11 song set for her packed crowd at the Alliance Francaise. Sporting a rad yellow dress, her and her band got the audience dancing to her songs dedicated to mothers, fathers and victims of rape (an unfortunate act of commonality in domestic homes of sub-Saharan Africa). She is articulate and gets us laughing with her songs pulling male members to the stage and eluding to her tears of a shy girl (when she is most obviously not that shy!). She has a voice for African women and hope to see her perform down the road with the growing number of Kenya's upcoming performers.

Young Kenya Entrepreneurs keen for business

Phillip sells customized bags made of recycled paper and shoelaces
Originally uploaded by make_change.

Last weekend, I was invited to attend a Young Entrepreneurs Symposium hosted by the Kimathi Information Centre. The organizers, Jose and Carthy, were kind enough to arrange my pickup and tour of their digs while organizing their first big event hosted by the centre. They were hosting this event because a number of young people had asked for information on how to start a small business and where to get financing. Within two months, they brought in the Kenyan government representatives of the Youth Enterprise Fund, a few microfinance institutions and motivational speakers to address the group of over 100 young people on how to approach small business in Kenya.

Just as an observer, I was blown away by the initiative of this group of young volunteers who came together and produced a well-attended event for their neighborhood. They also organized a Market Day to allow young people to display their wares and word on the street found some of the biggest sales happening due to the event. Impressive.

Bouquet to a stranger

Bouquet
Originally uploaded by make_change.

How little things can brighten one's day like yesterday's gift: a bouquet of flowers from a few schoolgirls as I walked home. "You can keep this one," they told me and little did they know it was my first flower bouquet of the year.

Kenya News: I learned yesterday that three Canadians were killed in a road accident on their way to Samuru Game Park outside of Nairobi. Their van was hit on the side by an out-of-control truck. Other Canadians and one Japanese were injured and in hospital. My condolences go out to their families back home for their children to be so far away and have a tragic accident to happen.

The Endless Possibilities of E-Commerce

I have joined the digital world and bought my first e-book and e-magazine online. On the hard drive of my computer, I now have one PDF copy of The World of Goods: the Anthropology of Consumption by Mary Douglas and Baron Isherwood from ebookmall and for my closet-fan obsession of fashion magazines: Zinio's Elle Magazine. The downloads for both products were relatively quick (like any other kind of download), and I am once again amazed at the availability of information now here at our fingertips even here in Nairobi. Even working with this Canadian organization, I am fully connected to all libraries around the world and through inter-library loans, can access any publication. Now the question remains if the rest of the world can have such access, can the possibilities even be imagined?

News from Nairobi: March 2007

So I was doing a search on the web and found that a website had posted my blog on the Java House as "Kenya News". I guess the website gathers interesting stories pertaining to the region and puts them all in this one place.

Things are going real well in Nairobi. Within the country of Kenya, final preparations for the World Cross Country Championships race in Mombasa is underway. The local papers are posting photos of all the athletes flying into the country for the race and excitement building for this weekend. On the other side of the coin, the papers have also been reporting on the poor gentrification process. Instead of assisting to clean up the filthy alleys of the city, the committee responsible has instead put up large sheets of metal to cover up the realities. Also streetchildren have been "swept away" for the event and rumours of protest line the newspaper columns. It is a bit sad that some poor results of preparing well in advanced for a world class event has again surfaced and what can one do but hope the race goes well??

Aling Mary's on the Vancouver Sun!

After doing my weekly call back home to my parents, I found out my cousin and aunt were on the business section of the Vancouver Sun for their infamous Filipino shop on Main Street and in Surrey called Aling Mary's. The photo was taken by the Vancouver Sun's Bill Keay. Read more...

Hoodo and I having a java jolt before concert!

Hoodo and I having a java jolt before concert!
Originally uploaded by make_change.

Java House is this uber Nairobi trendy coffee shop that is making quite the scene in the city. The place was packed on the Wednesday night, but I've heard that it's always busy no matter what time of day. This can be saying something about demand for coffee by the middle-upper class of this place. Then we moved on to check a Kenyan dance performance by Alema Dance. Check out the photos by clicking on Hoodo and I!


By the way, check out the funky scarf that I'm sporting. Before coming over to the Java House, Hoodo and I did an out-of-town shop for funky goods at a place called maridadi fabrics. Some super finds and has been supporting poor women since 1967. I will be bringing back this product for sale to you in Vancouver! :)

Kenya Music at the Mater Heart Run

I touched a child's heart.

I touched a child's heart.
Originally uploaded by make_change.

I ran my first 10 km race during The Mater Heart Run on Saturday, March 10, 2007. This run was organized to fundraise for the children’s unit for the Mater Hospital in Nairobi. After picking up the troops (co-worker, her sister and her sister’s kids), we drove over the Nyayo Stadium, where the race would kick off. In Nairobi, I’m used to watching these kites (type of predator bird) circle the sky but here, the trees were lined with the marabu storks I first saw at the Nairobi National Park.

We entered the stadium and found a sea of green t-shirts. Of course, I pulled the usual t-shirt ripping tradition and re-designed a once warm oversized shirt to a sleeveless jersey. We were off at the sound of a marching band that squeezed and bottle-necked at the exit of the stadium and ran in the middle of Uhuru highway and around Nairobi. Running is actually a really great way to see the outskirts of the city but I’d probably not do it if it wasn’t for this race. The sea of green started to break up a bit as people started to run-walk but the kids I’d pass (or they’d pass me) were full energy! I finished with the first 2000 people (because the first 2000 get a certificate!) and then proceeded to see the rest of the festivities.

After run events saw loads of high school and elementary school students crowd near the stage to watch their school mates have dance-offs and watch performances by local Kenyan artists. There were also booths surrounding the stadium. One which caught my eye was the Alive and Kicking Kenya – NGO supporting unemployed youth to make hand-stitched soccer and volleyballs and also promote messages of malaria and HIV/AIDS prevention. Very innovative ideas so I bought one of their leather soccer balls for 1000 Kenyan shillings (about $12 CAD).

After the race, I relaxed at home before heading to the nearby mall, Yaya Centre. I enjoyed a healthy roast-beef and strawberry juice at some health fruit juice shop and then found a cute little bookshop called Legacy Books. The shop sells books and reports on community development and is attached to a small coffee shop. Brilliant idea!

Friends are popping over to Africa from the sounds of a few emails. One for child care in Ghana and another assisting with some program promoting Africa bike designs for Kona… sponsor an African bike! Such a good idea because most people cannot afford cars and the bicycle is the best and healthy method of transport considering the road conditions and inaccessibility to some of the villages!

I have just met these Japanese dudes who do a Japanese tour to slum programmes all over Kenya as well as throw in a bit of the tourism bit. One guy buys goods from Kibera and Thika slum workshops (hand crafted pen holders, wire /bead animals, etc) and sells them with their group in Japan.

So many wonderful small ideas assisting with development for the communities. One dollar goes a long way for many of these places so if interested, save your pennies and support a LOCAL African community group!

PICTURE Africa

As part of my internship, I stipulated on my workplan that I would create a blog corresponding to the work that I would be doing here in East Africa. Although most of my work so far has been limited mainly to literature review / desk work, you can check out some of the popular media links and articles that I am picking up on the field of ICTs and development. I have also listed all the partners of this IDRC-funded project with which I am attempting to coordinate. In the next few months, I will start heading out in to the field to participate with PICTURE Africa (Poverty and Information and Communication Technology in Urban and Rural East Africa), a project seeking to learn how ICTs are affecting poverty in East Africa. Take a look if you are interested in Africa's work in ICTs and development.

Diga with Orphan Elephants

Diga with orphan elephants
Originally uploaded by make_change.

I just watched the video twice and think it's hilarious! The baby elephant's trunk just poked right over the fence and stunned Hoodo and I, briefly until I was brave enough to tickle the young ellie! I added a few photos of the orphan elephants, just click on the photo to see! We spent a good hour with these elephants and their caretakers. They take donations and host an adopt-an-orphan-baby-elephant campaign.

Elephant Orphanage visit in Nairobi

This weekend, I took a break from work and cruised over to Karen to visit the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, an organization which cares for orphan elephants and rhinos. We spent the afternoon watching this playful bunch of ellies roam around like children playing in the blankets, and teasing you with their trucks. In our visit, one month old, Kilgoris, was found hanging out with some Maasai cows when he was swept away from his family during a major flood. The Maasai people had then informed Kenyan Wildlife Service to come and take care of this orphan elephant. Adorable!

News from East Africa

River flooded 6 days ago
Originally uploaded by make_change.

Mozambique Cyclone : Wow, I have been following the news mainly from the prior flooding taking place. The flooding came from the release of the dam. Today, I learn about the cyclone. I hope that the prior evacuation had helped to keep the displaced from what could have been disastrous. Read more...



Nairobi: Headlines: "Death of a Gangster"

The last month, the national newspapers have been posting photos of the recently gunned down in Nairobi. After two Americans and a prominant AIDs doctor shocked the international community, steps were taken to oust the crime wave. Apparently this criminal has been causing trouble in his community for a long time charged for 11 murders and many other robberies. Only since high profile individuals had been caught in the killing spree have steps been taken to find individuals like Simon Matheri. However, had the high profile murders not taken place, would the killings continue on in this small neighborhood in Athi River? This is the case for many other neighborhoods of the poor who suffer insecurity and crime in their areas where they have reported activity to the police but do not have the international coverage.
Read more...

NGO-in-a-BOX

The web is a powerful place. I had bought a mac computer because of the ease of its editing software for video, software that I had become fairly familiar with during my time at undergrad setting up UBC TV on campus. We were circuit one and streamed video on sports events through out campus. At that time, we were revolutionary, in having the ability to broadcast the largest intramural program in Canada. Now, I logged onto the UBC TV website and they have caught on with the blaze of videoblogging and show videos created by their team and UBC students. Amazing stuff.

Another revolution. Editing software is expensive. But NGO-in-a-box has gathered all the different Free and Open Source Software (FOSS) so that people can edit and produce video basically for free with their own equipment! Social activism on video is existing and videobloggers on forums like EngageMedia are showing others what is happening on the field in terms of activism. Blown away.

Canadian Senate drills CIDA's poor work in Africa

Wow, this report states that CIDA has not made a difference in the last 40 years and that the whole institution should be disbanded. The Senate had interviews with hundreds of Canadians and Africans on the state of development in Africa and CIDA's work in the field and found that 80% of CIDA staff are in Ottawa, not in the developing country. The recommendation is to reverse this trend and see 80% of staff in Africa and have an Africa-located office. I like that prospect... especially since the people living in Africa are part of the process and more likely to experience the struggles of the people here.


As I have been a CIDA intern in the past, I think that there are certain benefits of sending Canadians abroad to work in the field and actually have a better glimpse of the true nature of development.

They also recommended more economic development projects instead of social welfare programmes... unsure where I stand on this but I suppose if Canada supports economic growth, they assume that the growth will immediately go to social programs - um, bad assumption, especially where civil society and governance is still extremely weak. As much as I support economic development, there still needs to be integration of social policy in order to see that education and health are driving priorities for the countries.

What a wonderful time to re-examine CIDA's work and see how more effective change can take place.

The restaurant below!

I finally had the chance to try out a new restaurant called Slims Restaurant. Now, I know you folks back in Vancouver get the impression of some cheap french fries and even cheaper beverages... but unfortunately, Slims (Nairobi) this is not the case. I entered in my flip flops and noticed, at around 6:30pm, the clientele were apres business folks in suits. Very nice central bar and booth seating on the side and well placed dining setting. Impressed! I sat with my friend Veronique and we ordered the guacamole and chips for a starter then one steak for her and one grilled tilapia for me. We chatted all about life and her getting back to conduct her research in Sudan (boy, have I been brought to another light about the conflict in Sudan!) and other things happening in and around Nairobi. The tilapia was excellent and not sure exactly how they were able to scale the fish and leave no bones! Nice herby type sauce. The crowd started to fill in a bit two hours later of Kenyans and a table of a few foreigners. Nice to try a new place once in a while.

I have been busy typing away at this literature review trying to tie all the amazing ideas and thoughts which can accumulate from this study into some kind of concrete plan. I just read this Working Paper from MIT - Department of Economics called "the Economic lives of the poor" by Banerjee and Duflo, which look at 13 countries and their Living Standard Measurement Surveys (LSMS). These surveys tell you what a person spends their money on in a month, what is their income, where they live and other demographics. They looked particularly at the bottom 10% of the population of these countries and saw that the poor did have gaps in their budget for things like entertainment, alcohol, and other non-needed food items. The problem is having a reliable place to save and psychologically commit to the future when their lives were in many times, such an unstable and insecure state. I should be able to get some great ideas from this paper.

Catherine & I at Lake Naivasha

Catherine & I at Lake Naivasha
Originally uploaded by make_change.

"if you pray for rain, plan for a thunderstorm..." - I just heard this on the BBC Africa this morning on my walk to work... I love how I have a little FM radio on my cell phone. It's actually keeping me up to date with the world news and the interesting debates and opinions. Like last night, they were asking people about Senator Obama and his presidential bid - while the commentators kept pushing for this media-generated, "can he represent African-Americans", the people phoning in kept telling them that it has nothing to do with race and in fact, it's just exciting to have a new face interested in taking leadership in America. By the way, the Kenyans LOVE Obama because his father was Kenyan-born and word on the street say that the Luo tribe (where his father was from) are attaching 'Obama' to the name of their children. Wicked.

There was also BBC debates on the Dixie Chicks and how they just won 5 Grammy awards even after the media exploited their words against Bush and the war and making it seem like the state of Texas was completely against them. Then these callers were saying how it was unfair that the media did not show the Texans who actually were completely against the war and supported the anti-war messages by the Dixie Chicks. I love the BBC Africa radio station, so great!

This last week has been eventful; went to Lake Naivasha for a staff retreat that focused on "stregthening institutional capacity" and noticed themes of integrating montioring and evaluation of programs are still taking a back-burner for many projects when it is always brought up in terms of importance. The lake was nice with hippos in the back and deer wandering the grassy fields. The hotel was incredible with a gym, tennis courts and delicious buffets.

On the weekend, I tried out an Ethiopean restaurant which was very tasty and not too expensive. I also took an afternoon to go to the nearby Nairobi National Park. The park was not too busy but didn't see too many animals. Lots of giraffes and butterflies but the grass was so high and trees so green and lush from the rains. It made it impossible to follow an animal once they entered the dense bush. Midway through the trip, the rain started to fall and our 9 passenger van slipped and slid through the wet soil. It was madness; we didn't get out until 7pm at night (6:30pm was the closing time). Mental note: go to NNP only at winter.

On Sunday, I went with my Japanese neighbor and her 1 year old son to this massive outdoor mall called the Village market. Nice shops but very pricey and nothing that I could really say I wanted to take back as presents except for some of their cool handmade glasses shaped like elephants for $10 USD. The really interesting part was the diversity of people entering the mall. It is this middle to upper class group with their families from all around the world just enjoying the patio atmosphere on a sunny Sunday afternoon at the international food court. That was nice to see.

Who questions the World Bank?

The Bretton Woods Project is fantastic and brave at pointing out the substantial flaws in development research conducted by the World Bank. Evidence come up "technically flawed" and "inconsistent" and many delivered and written only to complement an agenda set up by the institution. Many of the researchers are pressured to not offend their policies or partners and will choose Western researchers who believe in the same objectives they do. The major flaws of the World Bank is that their research is not peer-reviewed like most academic journals and they are unlikely to be conducted by developing country researchers. Other aspects outside of income are rarely conducted in order to truly understand a country's economic and developmental climate.

It is good to question where information has been retrieved and try to understand the flaws because at the end of the day, important policies are passed due to bad research which does not help the country in development.

International Development Week

Being here in Nairobi, I haven't experience too many events involving International Development Week in Canada... however, I'm not too sure how many Canadians are even aware of the week and will be participating in the events an International Development Week. Well, I hope that I will be proven wrong and see Canadians at least try to learn more about the world around us through one of the organized events hosted by the Canadian International Development Agency (CIDA) or trying to look up on the web different development initiatives taking place every day on the other side of the world or even in your own backyard.

I try to follow as closely as possible the different funded programmes that come through town like the Global Aids campaign or organizations setting up the marketing for selling and distributing mosquito nets to the country. It's great to see these programmes happening but it is also important to be critical about these programmes and looking to see that their plans attempt to be local (local staff and local materials) and self-sustainable. The other important aspect is to see that people try to evaluate their successes or challenges and look for ways of improvement vs. just securing funding. Development is not just a donation; it's ensuring that people grow out of poverty through their own decisions and choices and that we try to support their decisions by helping them influence government or look for ways of access to their very dire needs.

Staff Retreat to Lake Naivasha

Today, I'll be leaving at around 10am for our staff retreat to Lake Naivasha. It is a few hours outside of Nairobi into the central Rift Valley. Apparently it is an area where many of the local Maasai people live and the lake is one of Kenya's fresh water lakes. The Rift Valley has recently had cases of "fevers" where the cattle are catching some kind of mozzy bite and meat needs to be treated carefully. Eeee. We are staying at a nice place called Naivasha Simba Lodge which looks really nice and it's in front of the lake. However, we'll see how much time we'll have enjoying the scenery as most of the time will be spent at meetings on personnel people from Ottawa and workshops right until we leave at 4:00pm the next day. Until then...

BOP - Bottom of the Pyramid Marketing!

While here, I am trying to understand how businesses are able to service the poor and it appears that emerging literature on this massive market of 80% of the world's population will soon be seen in a new light. Harvard University had this new article come out on the concept of "bottom of the pyramid" and is one of many universities researching on how companies can look at the emerging economies and develop the right products or services to serve their needs.

The Junction in Nairobi

I moved into the new place yesterday and I'll soon post some photos of the pad. It's really great and there is a small balcony where you can stare out onto the busy main road. There is some kind of church across the way so there were loads of vehicles parked all over. I went over to one of the local malls called the Junction and finally exposed myself to Nairobi coffee at the Java House. This outdoor patio in front of the parking lot was packed with people local and non-local all enjoying a Sunday brunch. I had myself a beef burrito with guacamole and beans - not bad! The coffee is pretty good too with a whole selection that any real coffee shop should host. It is incredible but there is certainly a demand for this type of coffee shop in Nairobi with the mix of expatriates and locals reaching the middle class income level. Attached is a massive Nakumatt for groceries as well as other little clothing shops and the Kazuri beads shop. Great place if you want to be out of the city and need a piece of "home"...

One month in Nairobi - check!

Well, it's been a month and a month which has definitely flown by. Today, I went for a walk around the city and still discovering all kinds of hole in the wall restaurants with brilliant soups (Chinese chicken and spinach) and fresh mango juice. I don't know why I keep waiting for the right time to check out either Java House or Normans - their two big coffeehouses... I'm afraid that I'll be disappointed coming from Vancouver, the coffee village. I now notice that there are cybercafes (big and small) EVERYWHERE in this city and 1 minute costs about 10cents. It's amazing that such infrastructure completely exists here, and it's fairly fast. I have been skype-ing from my office and from a small 6-computer cybercafe across the street from the hostel. It's been great!

Also found a great little bookshop, Book Villa near the pretigious Stanley Hotel which lets you either be a member and borrow books all year for a fee or buy a book and once you return it, you can buy another book for half price. Such a great idea! I also noticed how entreprenuerial people are here. I meet taxi drivers running small food stands on the side of the road. People selling newspapers at every corner (and lots of people read the newspapers in Nairobi), lots of suits during the week heading to their job for the week. Amazing stuff.

It must be my week because a co-worker has offered me her spare bedroom to stay there for my remaining 3 months in Nairobi. She has a great furnished apartment on the 4th floor about 7-10 minute walk to the office. So I'll actually get to cook if I want to or order food in. That's all for now... have a great weekend.

Bridges - Organic Restaurant in Nairobi

Bridges - Organic Restaurant in Nairobi
Originally uploaded by make_change.

Wow, is it Tuesday already? Loads of great things happening here in Nairobi. One of them happened a week ago; I was introduced to a pleasant find: this fantastic organic restaurant place called Bridges! I was so impressed that I'll have to make it a priority to come here as much as possible during my stay here. I had a fresh tilapia with a side of sweet mango-ey sauce, bed of rice and salad. All for less than $4. Oh, organic fresh fruit juice included!

I finally saw that movie, Blood Diamonds, with Leo, actually incredibly impressed by the dramatic and stunningly beautiful backdrops of beach, then hellish dirty city to then majestic forests of Sierre Leone. I remember the rumours of his presence in Maputo during the filming of parts of the film. I swear some of the beach scenes look so familiar to Maputo or Mozambican beaches but I could be wrong. Some of the dialogue also reminds me of the film, Hotel Rwanda, when asked if the West will help now that the reporters write stories or take photos of their strife and the bluntness of "no" and "unlikely" kind of puts a jab at your heart... because there is some truth to the apathy that is referenced. The movie also takes a few strikes at development workers, Peace Corps, and consultants who come in trying to do good with their fancy laptops when their governments may well be funding the arms for the wars or the extremist militia taking place today.

The director also did a great job of leading the watcher through Daniel Archer and him dealing with his demons or inherent goodness in people... of course the discussion goes, "people are just people; it's the action they take chich determines if they are good or bad" He takes us through survival, TIA (this is africa) and that he could never abandon his continent.

Anything else: I saw a small concert at the Alliance Francaise last Thursday: the Ingosi Stars. They were rocking out , some in traditional wear, and singing to the sounds of the drums, guitar and other percussion instruments. The highlight was the actual band starter, Ingosi, was this old man who comes out with his traditional string instrument and taking his small moves like the two-step. Good times.

Book Release - The Media and the Rwanda Genocide

Here in Nairobi office, we have Allan Thompson doing his book release, "The Media and the Rwanda Genocide", and is available online to download or to purchase. Professor at Canada's renowned journalism school, Carleton University, Professor Thompson delivers a collection of writings that display how Rwanda waas infitrated by hate media during the genocide which instigated much of the fighting and how the international media chose to turn a blind eye to the situation and how the presents of media could have changed the results of the horrific events that took place in 1994. In one of the writings, it talks about how censorship is still strong today within government with leaders once in charge of propaganda and military intelligence and this is not just talking about Rwanda. This book describes how even today editors, reporters and those who produce any opposing views to the government is classified as "genocial ideology". Many have been exiled, killed, or persecuted in prison... the same was happening in Mozambique when a reporter was mysteriously murdered after reporting on certain stories implicating governmental officials to misuse of donor funding.

It's happening in the world and I give kudos to those reporters who have been willing to risk their lives to report the truth and even more respect to those who take action.

Motif Records and Tumi Molekane - South Africa

Just been forwarded the information about the new independent label in South Africa, Motif Records and artist Tumi Moelkane. Please click here to listen to his song, Maria or more of his 3 sample tracks on his myspace page.

Saw the film - The Inconvenient Truth

Al Gore gives his climate change speech on video for all to see and understand the real dramatic affects of global warming. Definitely a film worth checking out and see the relevant facts of climate change. However, in terms of suggestions of stopping climate change could be further expanded, well worth the time.


What gets us into trouble
is not what we don't know,

it's what we know for sure
that just ain't so.

-Mark Twain (from the Inconvenient Truth)

Marching for Swaziland's Democracy

Here's another clip of the events that took place at Kasarani stadium in Nairobi, Kenya for the 2007 World Social Forum. These marchers are seeking for justice in democracy as they are currently ruled by one of the last existing monarchies in Africa.

The World Social Forum was an opportunity to meet groups particularly those working in Africa in building a more fair society. I met with youth group leaders, members of church congregations, activists, graphic designers, you name it. In the local papers, there was positive and negative press on the forum, saying that there are never any concrete plans made towards development. While I only briefly attended one planning meeting on how to implement goals from the WSF, I see the determination and passion for many delegates in fighting for a world where water and air is still available to people as a human right and where farmers can continue their traditional ways of farming from generations before and not be forced to buy patented seed that had belonged to the traditional farmers in the first place. It should not be illegal to harvest and keep your seed as one has done years ago. But it's happening...

Friday Night in Nairobi - WSF 2007 Cultural Events!

Friday night was my first taste of Nairobi’s night life, venturing outside of the radius of my safe Y. At 7:15pm, Veronique, Hoodo and I jumped into a cab for 200 ksh and cruised over to the Alliance Francaise, between Utalii and Monrovia Street near Loita. It felt like you had to manoveur into a little side street to get there and in front were loads of guests gathered at the front. It is a nice window-laden buildling and inside you find a small gallery of local sculptures (wood and metal) and some paintings by African artists. On the second floor, one will find a fairly extensive bibliotheque (library) and a display of World Press photography from around Africa. We walked back down to enter the area of the concert stage to see Eric Wainaina, Kenyan musician, now there for his CD release. The stage was set up in the AF’s garden with the steps now made as sitting area. We found a place on the ground near the stage. Eric seems to have formed quite the following with Kenyans singing to his lyrics and getting the crowd into the physical actions to the song, “Sawa sawa” from his first album. Various musicians would also join Eric on stage such as the German ambassador on piano and a the wonderful sounds of Sarah. Not only stunning voice and white dress to dazzle the all-embracing crowd. Just as Eric’s band took over for a few more upbeat sounds, the rain started to pour and those not under the coverage were dancing and smiling in the rain. It did not seem to damper their spirits at all; in fact, it may be re-energizing for many looking for some dancing room. The packed crowd, stoked atmosphere, and well-staged concert gives Eric and Alliance Francaise a wonderful build blocks to the future for culture and the arts in the Nairobi scene.

"A world without AIDS is possible"

"A world without AIDS is possible"
Originally uploaded by make_change.

Action packed weekend with the World Social Forum starting this past Saturday, January 20, 2007. I was walking into town when we crossed paths with some of the people participating in the opening march from the slums of Kibera all the way to the city centre's Uhuru Park. I heard the park means freedom which makes sense in this case as people organize to speak of the freedoms they have been denied - speech, basic services, health, and life. Loads of people from around the world walking around with their participant or volunteer name tags and confused faces of where events where taking place. Kasarani stadium is a massive football field where groups have stands surrounding the outside of the stadium for information on their organization or selling their wares. I attended a workshop on participatory video and saw people actually pick up a camera for the first time in their lives. Empowering experience.

UBC Business school in Africa

Looks like my old faculty is catching up with the development times and trends and have initiated some programs right here in Nairobi last July/August 2006 under the title, "Social Entrepreneurship 101". Why wasn't this course offered when I was around? Take a look at their blogged history of the project while in Africa and the concept behind the project.

World Social Forum registration tent

World Social Forum registration tent
Originally uploaded by make_change.

Well, I arrived at the tents on the Kenya International Conference Centre grounds at 8am and found myself sitting around reading the Nation (to see the other WSF events happening around town) until about 9am. A guy behind me asked if I wanted to register and I said, of course! Luckily I registered online and paid online so actually I was supposed to be there solely to confirm and pick up the registration package. What registration package and wrist band? Registration package? nope, still hasn't arrived and all festivities begin tomorrow. If this is a sign for the next week, I better pack 3 newspapers and a lunch and embrace the positive energetic chaos that will be here in Nairobi!

Tonight, there are several events taking place; Poetry Slam with possibly Dennis Brutus speaking at the Go Down Art Centre at 7pm, another artist performing at the Alliance Francaise (500 ksh) and then the big fundraising (??) concert with Oliver Mtukudzi and friends at 7pm at the KICC hall but its 1000 ksh (2000 ksh for VIP???) general admission. I think it's a bit out of the price range for many people to attend particularly for locals so like other overpriced events I have attended in Africa, I'm sure I'll be within a tiny crowd of foreigners and lots of Kenyan volunteers, which is not what the event should really be about. I hope that the organizing committee of WSF can prove me wrong.

World Social Forum arrives on Saturday!

The city of Nairobi should be bustling in activity as the World Social Forum (WSF)
kicks off this Saturday January 20! It will be the first time that I will be at such a gathering of social activists, academics, development people and artists. I still recall the South African group organizing many months ago in preparation of themes and activities that they wish to present on behalf of the underprivileged, the shack dwellers, the unionists, the voiceless, and the poor. UKZN should be bringing it a few of the students from the Centre for Civil Society so look forward to meeting up with some familiar faces. Those who are not able to attend the event, you can also participate online with your comments or thoughts at www.wsfprocess.net. This website is supposed to engage debate and share ideas of the groups attending and further push the agenda for change for civil society.

Visit to the University of Nairobi

Yesterday, I took most of the morning to spend time at the Institute of Development Studies (IDS) at the University of Nairobi. I brieflly met with Mary Omosa, a research fellow at the institute and met some of the alumni and current students of the Masters' programme. Apparently the intake for the two-year programme is around six-seven students per year and classes are taught for the first 1 1/2 years. To follow is the research component where students conduct work for their dissertation. I hope that I can use this opportunity to start collaboration between UKZN and UON in terms of a student network. The other part of my visit was to see how the research team was doing for the ICT and Poverty project in Kenya. I spent 2 1/2 hours with Lynet and Obidia flushing out the questions so that they were in Kenyan country context and raise issues to bring forward to the management team at the end of the week. It was great spending time with the two bouncing ideas off of each other about the research tool and learning a few Kenyan terms for food items and ICT products. When we finished off the tea and samosas, I made my one hour walk back to the office...

Polite Notice - No Parking

Polite Notice - No Parking
Originally uploaded by make_change.

The thing is, Kenyas are so friendly and polite that they even have signs, "Polite Notice: No Parking". I think this is what has made my first week in Nairobi quite adjustable. Not only have I been provided with incredible resources through the office, people are happy to help you, and the office is very "open door" policy where you can chat and collaborate ideas at any moment. To give you an idea of my mornings, I get up around 6:30am, head from breakfast around 7:30am (which consists of a mandazi bread, coffee and papaya or pinapple slice for 1$ CAD) and then 15-20 minute walk to the office. Yesterday, I walked by this man roasting corn in his little corner and bought a half piece for 5 Kenyan shillings (10 cents).

The capital city of Nairobi

the Drive through Boane
Originally uploaded by make_change.

This photo is certainly not Nairobi - it is absolutely the opposite. Nairobi is a busy congested city with skyscrapers in the downtown core and all the businesses you little heart will ever need in a limited brand fashion. I found a local gym today with stairclimbers, weights and aerobics studio for around $3 a day if I sign up for 3 months. That's fairly comparable to back home. I have fallen for the Nakumatt - the superstore of Kenya - and found everything that I need - umbrella, hangers and an extension cord and fruit juice boxes! Certainly less garbage around the streets and they have green-suited cleaners spraying down the sidewalks in the morning. So far, very comfortable working in this city for the IDRC.

Living only 15 minutes from the office is utterly convenient which is why I'm in the office this afternoon. Actually, I think this is one of the special aspects about working for this institution. Flexible hours for a researcher as ideas don't necessarily develop from a 9-5 fashion. They have incredible research resources at my disposal. Full-on online library, sattelite high-speed internet connection (coming from Canada, crazy!), a driver who does a weekly run for staff to town for any necessities... and they provide French language training for the staff. I'm thinking about cleaning up the French a bit myself. I should look into that.

Only real downside is not being near the ocean that I have grown to love. Even after I left Belgium, I vowed not to return to a landlock, mountainless place. However, things change, and Nairobi is a place where it can happen - Mombasa is near by (beach!), the national park with animals is less than an hour outside and I am still in the place I love, Africa.

Spier Cheetah Outreach

Spier Cheetah Outreach
Originally uploaded by make_change.

I have uploaded some new photos from my October and November trips to Mozambique and girl-road trip South Africa. You can check it out on my Flickr page by clicking on the photo. Back in November, the girls and I were driving into Stellenbosch (near Cape Town) to take in the country's reputation of incredible wine. One winery had the cheetahs so we made it our first stop. Click the photo for a further story.

Happy 2007 New Year in Nairobi

So many people... are conditioned to a life of security, conformity and conservatism, all of which appear to give one peace of mind, but in reality nothing is more damaging to the adventurous spirit within a man than a secure future. The very basic core of a man's living spirit is his passion for adventure. The joy of life comes from our encounters with new experiences, and hence there is no greater joy than to have and endlessly changing horizon, for each day to have a new and different sun.

- Alex McCandless (Into the Wild)

Thanks, Emily (Scotchy) for this quote in Krakauer's book (soon to be Sean Penn directed movie, what?)

I'm slowly settling into my new life here in Nairobi, mainly trying to get all my supplies and thoughts together for the next few months as I truck through the remnants of my dissertation (I need to finish) and be trained by Edith and IDRC team in the Acadia division. Acadia is representing the "Communities and the Information Society in Africa Program Initiative". I'm still trying really under the extent of the information society here in Eastern Africa and hope that I can share more about it in the next few months.

In the meanwhile, I am biting the frugal bullet and sticking around the YWCA for $5 a night for this month until the first paycheque comes in...

ICT Innovation in poor village in Mozambique

ICT Innovation in poor village in Mozambique
Originally uploaded by make_change.

I'm heading home to Vancouver today; very excited but busy as ever. I have to admit that I have been mainly occupied trying to organize my way back to Africa for the next year coordinating dates and places to stay. I'll be living in Nairobi for the next 3-4 months trying to understand how technology is or isn't helping in alleviating poverty. In the meanwhile, I'm working to clean up this dissertation and get on with this new study. Any motivational words because it sure is difficult during the holiday season. My supervisor said 8 hours each day on the weekends - I guess you have to do what you've got to do!

Heading to Nairobi

I apologize to all my regular readers for the non update on the website for ages. Time starts to fly when you are caught up with field work, then the immediate visit of three of your crazy friends from Vancouver, and then learning a few days ago that I will now be moving to Nairobi for my next adventure! I am now in the Jo-berg airport off to our first meeting about the PICTURE - ICT and Poverty reduction project and when I return, promise to devulge all the stories of the last 3-4 months and the expectation for the following year!

The gnarly bus trip to Bela Vista

As would happen in Mozambique, there would be some reason why I won't make it to the end destination without some form of barrier. I was supposed to leave on the afternoon of Wednesday, October 11, but of course, the translator/moderator was also having transportation problems of getting around town and catching buses on time. So, there is was 3:00pm - still in my apartment, we weren't going to make the ferry to catch the 3:00pm bus on the other side.

Then the morning after, we planned to make the 9:00am bus on the other side at Catembe so the translator said that he would meet me at 7:30 in front of the cinema. Once again, like Mozambican time, his arrival was naturally later than the time set (it was the traffic, obviously) and I waited until 8:15 to hear a text message that he was waiting outside. So off we went to try to catch another chapa called A vodador in front of Mundo's restaurant because it was only going to cost 5 MTZ to get to the ferry docks instead of 100,000 MTZ by cab. We get to the docks in 30 minutes (usually 5 minutes via taxicab) and off we went on the ferry to the other side. Of course, the reservation that we made on the bus was no longer valid and the bus was packed full of people heading to Bela Vista. And of course instead of leaving at the usual 8:30-9am departure time, we left at 9:30am. The translator explained to me that they do this in order to pack the bus and make more money from the number of passengers.

Well, if the late departure time wasn't the issue, it was the fact that the bus broke down 3 times before reaching Bela Vista within 3 hours. The trip usually take just under 2 hours. So there we were, sweaty in the packed bus eating only salty crackers and lichee juice boxes and stuck on an unpaved bumpy road to where I will stay for now 2 weeks.

Now that I have accepted the fact of this "African" time debacle, I have settled in to a place called Quinta Milla run by this woman called Amelita. The place lies in front of the beautiful setting of the Maputo River and has a lovely vegetable garden and two old dogs "guarding" or basking in the sun at the place. The room is simple with a double bed and sofa and running cold water from the shower, toilet and sink. I can ask for hot water as well which would come in a plastic bucket.

The translator invited me to meet his family and 3 year old girl and we had gazelle soup and some tomato based goat dish with tomato salad and rice. This seems to be the typical going meal here in Bela Vista.

As for my work, it seems to be going well. I have already interviewed the head of the Red Cross association in Matutuine district, some of the nurses at the Centre of Health of Matutuine, the business association and of course the community centre development of Kutsemba. I have also tried to line up interviews with the head local leaders (the Administrator and traditional leader), the women's group leader, the parent's association and hopefully the district head of agriculture. At least I won't be this unknown figure walking around this small village.

Overall feelings: it is amazing to be in this village as I am told the changes and the continuous obstacles of this village. The business association had pushed for electricity, running water and cell-phone communication and it exists in this town. Yet the running water is only found at several taps in the city which all people have to walk to in order to access and sometimes (like yesterday) it is shut off because someone either failed to pay the bill or didn't do their job that day. I also see some form of growth as some people are able to build with concrete blocks in the town while the majority still live in reed homes. I look forward to interview the clients of the microfinance institution and how it has helped their business to grow or fail in the next few weeks. I will likely not be in contact on this blog until I am back in Durban at the end of the month.

First visit to Male Yeru

Yesterday, I got to tag along with the Mozambique Microfinance Facility (MMF) and International Capital Corporation (ICC) and learn more about a recent research study on the demand for savings in the Matutuine District where Hluvuku-Male Yeru (the microfinance institution which I will be studying) is located. Their study interviewed clients of the MFI and found that many clients were travelling in to the capital to deposit their savings because there is no facility currently used to make deposits in the area. The big journey to town is time-consuming and costly by transport and risky should the individual get mugged on the way to the bank. There was also savings groups called xitiques or just keeping it at home but all clients in the interview said that they would want savings to be provided by their local microfinance operator, Male Yeru.

I came back to Maputo yesterday to finish up some internet research and meet some friends for dinner. I hope to be back for Saturday for the 3rd anniversary of the Swedish school soccer team that I played on in 2004. I can't wait to check out more of Bela Vista this afternoon.

The gardens of the Natural History Museum in Maputo

The gardens of the Natural History Museum in Maputo
Originally uploaded by make_change.

Here is one of the dinosaur-like figures that stand in the gardens of the Natural History Museum in Maputo. We haven't quite figured out which prehistoric animal it is because the sign was ripped off to explain the type and to be honest, visitors must take it as it is for lasting as long as it has through war. The museum is actually massive and covering a massive section of freakishly taxi-dermied wildlife like leopard and lion, a few skeletons and a couple of true-scaled alligator models. I understand most people go there to see the exhibit of the entire gestation period of the unborn elephant. I personally found the anthropological section to be most interesting with old photos, tools and crafts of the Makonde people.
Yesterday, I went to a new spot here called the Camissa (next door to the Nucleo d'Arte Gallery, a little cafe that has live music on Sunday evenings. I remember it in 2004 as the alternative artist spot filled with scattered canvas and strumming guitar by a group in the corner. Today it has a mini stage and internet cafe; catching up with the times, which I think Mozambique has the potential to do especially in the capital. Really great Mozambican vibe that reminds me again why this capital city always draws me back. The city is lively in dance, music, food, and nightlife, much different from any African city I've ever been to, and many others do say the same.

Today, I'm meeting with some of my key informants and hopefully my translator who will be assisting me on the field. Otherwise, the day is spent getting ready to head out tomorrow!

Research work break in the Maputo apartment

Day Three in Mozambique
Originally uploaded by make_change.

It's noon in Maputo and took this photo with undumbo on the 9th floor of the apartment patio. Click on the photo to see more shots of where I am staying before I head out to the field. Today I had an interview with one of the field officers of a Swiss NGO who concentrates on natural resource management in the Matutuine district. He gave me a great idea of the history of this area after the war and what forms of economic development he sees will progress for the communities. He sees full potential of tourism particularly in this area located close to some of the most beautiful beaches on the coast as well as the growth of the Elephant Game Reserve. However, the young people of the district have been migrating to South Africa or Swaziland because of the lucrative offers of the Rand and better jobs. One community who is running a lodge hopes to eventually take the profits of their venture and invest in building a school. This school is part of their plan to educate their children and create incentives and jobs for the youth to stay in Mozambique.

Mozambique memories

Erin, my old roommate here in Maputo was sure to re-introduce me to the excellent taste sensations of Mozambique. Last night, we went to our favourite French restaurant place called la Pinga. Delicious medium rare steaks on rochefort sauce and escargots. And the chef is quite the character, he forgets to open your bottle of wine at the table and says "well, if you want me to open the bottle that means it will be finished right away." and someone always falls for the oh, don't worry, we'll be sure to buy another and mental note who said it.

I got my new Mozambique cell phone number activated and great to hear from some old friends. I met with the people of the Mozambique Microfinance Facility shortly just to say hello and then came back to the apartment to start getting my research sorted. It looks like we won't be leaving for Bela Vista until Tuesday which is fine with me. I still have to tie up some loose ends with the research questions before I can get on the field.

Kakaloi from Ghana: Drumming Sensation!

Kakaloi from Ghana: Drumming Sensation!
Originally uploaded by make_change.

Awesome Africa hosted some fantastic music last Sunday, one being this wicked Ghanian drumming group called Kakaloi. Amazing stuff. They drummed, did back flips and balanced slipping garbage can lids on sticks - very talented.

I finally reached Maputo and staying at my old apartment on Rua de Julius Nyerere. I'm very stoked to be back in Maputo and see a few changes from 2004. New pink BIM bank outlets, a new cigar bar next door, a bit of new paint on the buildings, but same door guard calling me menina - I guess that means they remember me. A few new additions to the 9th floor apartmento - two doggies, one that looks like those starwars ewok creatures and the dingo. super friendly pups. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get myself sorted with my project and make my way to Bela Vista on Friday.

Durban Event Review: The Red Eye

On Friday night, I headed over to Durban's museum attached to city hall which was converted to their art event, Red Eye. The location was a haven for the artsies to come out for an evening to mingle and drink and take a peek at some of the ideas and expressions walking around the streets of Durban. The one exciting dance piece was by the Siwela Sonke Dance Theatre did a wicked performance in this circular room at the top floor of the museum space. The song and space worked out well for the dance. The rest of the galleries were video installation, a photo collection of Durban on a clothes line, some Durban drumming and a
potentially funny skit on the set of a happy, mushroom garden. It was a penguin vs chicken boxing match and horse vs floppy ear dog and his pet human.